Japanese Wine Country

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In this episode, teamEggers runs out of money. Really. For about 12 hours, I only had six cents in my possession.

my last 6 cents

Jon had to give up his reserve $20 bill. The rare 2000 Yen note, only created in the year 2000. It was… depressing. We’ve never not had any money before.

jon's last $20

But. I’m getting ahead of myself. We put our j-girls (emi and Mao) in charge of find out hotel for the night. They called random numbers from the Internet for a while, and eventually told us that we had some rooms for $40 per person. Hurray! I’m SO much more okay with winging it when Emi’s around.

Later that night, we find ourselves at the Suzuki En. (Suzuki is kind of like Smith. Really common last name.)

suzuki en - katsunuma

The Suzuki En was nice! And charming. And had all kinds of really perfect things going on. I couldn’t have picked a better place if I researched and really, really tried. They had vineyards in the backyard, made their own wine, and had a whole wine-theme going on. It wasn’t kitchy at all, just really… charming. Here’s the courtyard:

suzuki en - katsunuma

We stayed in Room 5.

suzuki en - katsunuma

And spent some time hanging out in the chilly courtyard before turning in early. This may have been the first Saturday in existence that Brian Reece & I went to bed at the same hour.

suzuki en - katsunuma

I love the detail of this hotel.

suzuki en - katsunuma

There was a collection of antique wine openers. Look at that red and white one. They’re pantaloons. The corkscrew is, ahem

suzuki en - katsunuma

And this is the same wood-burning oven that the Eggers have up north!

suzuki en - katsunuma

…see!!

IMG_0392.JPG

So the hotel was $40. No one in our group thought to go to the ATM before leaving for this remote mountain town, and Will didn’t even come with enough money for the train ride. We decided to scround together our last dollars and cents for breakfast in the morning. I’m glad we did – it was really good!

breakfast at suzuki en - katsunuma

Our plans for the morning: 1. find money. 2. find the farmers market.

Here’s the thing. I’ve never *not* had money before. I’ve never had six cents to my name. Without Emi & Mao, we certainly would have been lost. Or rather, we would have found our way with much less efficiency than we did.

The hills of Katsunuma:

katsunuma mountains

Koshu. The local grape. It grows differently than any other grape I’ve ever seen. The vineyards look… incredibly different. And they’re plentiful – nearly all the houses in the area had vines in their driveway.

Because of its thick, bitter skin, one of the best ways to cultivate it is to allow it to be far from the ground, but not in direct sunlight. What do you do? Make a canopy.

m in katsunuma

About 6 feet from the ground, they’d lay wire nets, and the grapes hang from the bottom. Boy, i wish we had come in fall when the fruit was hanging. This valley is probably incredibly.

katsunuma

This vending machine is exciting only for its rarity. I wish there were more beer machines on the streets, or that i didn’t find this one at 10am.

beer vending machine

Eventually we made it to our farmers market. I had incredibly low expectations and was really surprised at its awesomeness. It’s no West Allis farmer’s market. And it’s no Seattle farmer’s market, but it was way better than I expected.

farmers market in katsunuma

First order of business: find the guy with the beans. There’s always one.

coffee at the farmers market in katsunuma

After some shopping about (I bought some greens and jon bought some fresh pasta!), we stopped by a tasting room and did a quick wine tasting. I came home with a bottle of rosé.

wine tasting in katsunuma

I love how thoroughly ingrained the grapes are into the culture here. I love wine country. It’s just so… perfect. For a weekend.

wine country - katsunuma

***

Boy. I’m exhausted. On our way home, we made a quick detour to get some long-sought after ramen. This place, basanova, was the last stop on our list of “must have” ramen joints. Nevermind that half of their sign fell down and they didn’t care. Nevermind that the bar next door looks like it’s been deserted for years.

basanova ramen

Their claim to fame? Green Curry Ramen. I know it sounds crazy, but oh, god. It was so good. The best, perhaps.

green curry ramen at basanova

I mean, look how happy we are.

m&j at basanova