Yakiniku w/ Friends

We loved the All You Can Eat / All You Can Drink format of this yakiniku place so much, that we came back on one of Phil’s last days in town. It was kind of awesome.

I love it that we have a group of friends here. There’s an awesome built in network in Yokohama, because you all are in the same circumstance, and because you’re brought together with people that you might not ordinarily live so close to. Also, I’ve been using the word “awesome” an incredible amount today.

Phil’s an awesome guy, and I’m excited to have gotten the chance to hang out with him for a bit. Since he lives on the other side of the pond (in Washington), it’s a rare day that we all get to hang out stateside. We’ll miss you, Phil!

Yuzawa

There’s something really charming about the idea of a snow festival. We grew up in Wisconsin, a place where I’ve never know the people to celebrate the back-breaking winter weather. In Tokamachi, however, the perspective is different.

61 years ago, the locals decided to celebrate the mounds snow around them, instead of feeling oppressed by it. They built snow castles and drank in the streets. It was festive. Joyous. It was a way to lift spirits in the middle of a hard winter. I think I read that somewhere. If not, I might have made it up. As jon will tell you, I’m prone to doing that. Anyways, that’s the picture I want to keep of the Japanese people 61 years ago.

On Saturday morning, with little more than an idea of which train to take, we loaded ourselves onto the Shinkansen.

I packed brunch, which amounted to a bottle of sparkling wine (wrapped hobo-style) and some juice:

…and we sat back for 2 hours, as or bullet train carried us towards the mountains.

**

Remember from last year, we talked about how every little area seems to have it’s own local food specialty? The big one here is rice, but the omnipresent street food is a something packaged brightly in leaves.

Isn’t it beautiful? It looks like it could be a tropical fish, with all of it’s tails and tendrils.

Oh. It’s… green. Okay. And to think I had just sworn off macha for good this time (the thick green tea drink). But okay. We’ll go with it. I wonder what’s inside!

Oh. (sad face) it’s bean paste. in retrospect, why on earth would I have expected the bundle to be filled with anything but bean paste? Foiled again.

Perhaps 4 photos of that was gratuitous, but i wanted you to experience the excitement (and subsequent disappointment) with me.

**

At this point, we’re wandering around the town of Yuzawa, which is akin to a neighborhood ski town. Not ritzy like Vail, or quaint and charming like Breckenridge. Yuzawa felt like the working-man’s ski town. There were onsens (hot baths) abound, and lots of houses. Very neighborhoody-like.

Despite all these [theoretical] housing opportunities around us, Jon and I came to Yuzawa without a hotel booked. I think I’ll leave you there, since the telling of that story could be quite long.

Instead, I’ll leave you with this totally awesome picture of the area that we were in. Mountains are so pretty. (Although I find it’s best to look at pictures of them rather than to climb around in them!)

Valentines Day Weekend

I’ve given you a few snapshots of Valentines Day weekend, but I thought I’d talk a bit more about the weekend on a whole. You may be thinking to yourself about now, “what, they don’t do anything during the week anymore? Here it’s a week later and she’s still talking about last sunday? this sucks! I want my money back!”

Yes, dear reader, you’re right. I’m lazy. Some days I don’t even leave the house. But I cook dinner almost every night! You want recipes? That’s about all I can give you. Recipes and pity parties.

To close up the weekend before I start the next one, here’s a quick recap:

Ramen Adventures! Jangara Ramen, recommended by two of the ramen blogs that we follow. Located right off the main drag in Akihabara (the electronics district)

The line is always this long!

Inside (they say not to take photos, so i had to sneak a few covert-like with my iPhone. I’m sure they didnt notice because I blend in really well. … and my iPhone is lime-green)

Then we went to the Edo history museum, where I sat in things:

…and jon stood in front of things (look, sumo!)

. next morning . up before dawn to take in the sights at the tsukiji fish market. Boy, I wish I had some coffee.

We were careful not to get in the way or get hit by one of the speeding fish cars. The market before it wakes up…

…as the vendors are still preparing for their days.

Large semi trucks unload fish to be sold starting at 3am. Most of them come in Styrofoam boxes that are turned into the makings of a mountain.

I love the view here of the city in the background. It looks so… dismal. If you think about it, a lot of fishies gave their lives for this picture. It is dismal.

We ended our day with a sushi breakfast (at 7am!). I was feeling kind of sick, but decided that stomachache or not, I was eating raw tuna that morning!! (it was worth it!)

Valentines in Ginza (Ukai-tei)

< fair warning: this is a food-lovin’ post, chock-full of pictures. EOM >

Last year, jon and I bought the Michelin Guide to Tokyo and vowed to visit our first Michelin starred restaurant while we were out here.  For whatever reason, it never ended up happening in ‘09, but we did manage a last-minute reservation last night at Ukai-tei in Ginza.

Valentines teppanyaki. Oh, oh. We decided on one of the seasonal set menus, which started us with an amuse bouche: an airy cream-based soup set over custard and topped with uni. A few nights before, jon and I had pledged our allegiance with uni (in brief: a type of sushi), and so this was a welcome (and buttery) treat. Not something that I would have ordered with relish last week.

The appetizer course: king crab w/ sauteed leeks for me…

…marinated filefish sashimi for jon. Filefish are funny-lookin buggards, with their odd shape and clumsy patterning. It’s not very common as sushi in America, and they’re most often found dried, turned into jerky, and snacked upon in Korea. Those crazy Koreans.

After the appetizer course we found ourselves with parsnip soup – so intensely parsnippy, and so incredibly tasty, it made wonder why I always overlook parsnips at the supermarket. They’re just so… good. A great uncommon-yet-familiar flavour. I promise to roast more of them in the future.

The dinner we ordered was the abalone menu. We hadn’t ever had abalone before (that I can remember), so I wasn’t positive what to expect in either preparation or flavour. It was so neat! They bring out two abalone-on-the-half-shell, that are then put on a hot flat top grill and covered gently with two banana leaves. (Really, the chef nestled these leaves around them.) Then they MOUND on the rock salt (it looks like a miniature ski hill at this point), and pour white wine all over it before covering to steam.

In a separate pan, they bundle up some crinkly savoy cabbage and put it in a pan with a-little-bit of-this and a-little-bit-of-that, until what emerges is exactly like a classically prepared béarnaise sauce. Lovely! The abalone were creamy, and hearty enough to stand up to the rich sauce, and my acidic white French wine was a perfect compliment.

After fish comes the meat course, and they brought out the sirloin to present to us before asking how we like it cooked. It’s so lovely there, sitting in front of us. Naked and full of potential.

When you say “medium rare”, you get it a perfect medium rare. And the marbling melts in your mouth. And you wonder why, on earth, you have ever eaten anything else. And just then, as to break my reverie, the woman across from me comments on how this is just the best meal she’s ever eaten.

It’s very traditional in Japan to eat your rice after the meat / fish course. Our Japanese friends always look at us oddly when we ask the waitress for a bowl of rice during dinner. For our parts, Jon and I had one of each, noodles and rice.

I started with the Japanese Noodles, which reminded me of that quiet dinner in Kyoto – cool, intensely flavoured broth holding gently suspending thin, delicate noodles. Served with a side of grated daikon (radish), just in case you needed to clean your palate. Jon opted for the garlic rice, which was equally tasty.

Clearly, by this point in the night I had lost my ability to take photos that were in focus.

The table was decorated sparsely with flowers, but it was perfect because you didn’t really want anything more complicated than a single orchid. Because the single orchid was, in itself, a metaphor for the Japanese cuisine: Striking in its simplicity, but perfectly formed and prepared with a great deal of deliberateness.

…and just as jon and I were beginning to dream of a chocolate ending to our affair, the waiter came to tell us that our “dessert table was ready”. I sat in reverie and jon remarked about how “money can’t buy love”. We both knowingly laughed – I love him so much for his shared interest in this kind of stuff, not because he can / we can afford to take us out to schmancy meals.

Dessert started us with an orange geleé gratineé – this culture loves its geletain products. Really, they make everything in to jello-like cubes.

Jon had a fudge-like torte that I wasn’t speedy enough to get a photo of, and I ended with espresso and a caramel pudding that in another world would have been called either flan or créme caramel.

We found it hard to not linger on the service, quality of food, and overall fantastic-ness of the evening, but knew it was time to go. We have early morning plans with a tuna-man.

Yokohama Style Ramen

My mom always tells me that when I travel, or move to a new place, she’s sees more news about that location than she ever has before.  (Personally, I think she just pays attention to it more than when it’s irrelevant!) But maybe there’s some truth to the thought.

A ramen-devoted blog mentioned in a NY Times article about Ramen in Tokyo, clued us in to a noodle hotspot just blocks from our house. Yoshimura was the first to make what is now known as Yokohama Style ramen (also called Iekei or house-style ramen).  For its ingenuity (and heavy hand with the pork fat), Yoshimura is rewarded with lines out the door every night of the week, and hundreds of ramen spots using the same recipe as chef Yoshimura.

We were lucky to get there before the rush.  After picking a few things at random from the vending machine, we offered up our tokens and waited for dinner.

I picked three tokens (a ramen bowl and two other mystery things), one of which was this bowl of leeks sauteed in…. something slightly spicy.  Hurray for unexpected appetizers!

I think my other extra token was for cabbage, since it was the only thing my bowl had that jon’s didn’t.  Last time we ordered a random token at a ramen vending machine, we got a plate of pickled bamboo shoots. I’d say this was way more successful! Look at that piece of pork!

The ramen was fantastic, though there was entirely too much of it.  The broth tasted like meat juice, very roasty and thick, and the noodles were springy and perfectly cooked. In case the broth wasn’t flavourful enough for you, there were plenty of condiments on the counter for you to sauce up with…