Posted by michelle on April 1st, 2009 |
2 comments
[Note: Similar to the 5-part Seoul trip, this was a big weekend. There's a lot of story to tell you about. I hope you don't mind.]
While it wasn’t a ryokan, we did manage to locate a hotel for Saturday night. You know how when you go to a hotel in America, and they charge you extra on top of the advertised rate when you have two people? That always drove me crazy. Over half of their rooms have to be taken by couples of some sort. Why wouldn’t you make your advertised price for TWO people and then offer a friendly “single traveler” discount? It’s all about framing in a positive way, you know?
I digress. In Japan, the room rate is often *doubled* for two people. I will never complain about that extra $10 in America again.
At 6am we loaded ourselves up on one of the fastest trains in the world, which has incredible amounts of legroom, sells whiskey and sandwiches, and travels 300 miles in 2 hours. With a book and an inclination to nap, it was not a terrible way to spend the morning.

I may have mentioned that this was supposed to be one of the most beautiful weekends in all of the year. The fleeting “sakura season” is approaching.

That is, unless you get an unexpected cold-weather front and none of the buds pop yet. The crazy thing about cherry trees is that they don’t unfold their leaves until after their blossoms, so before sakura season all you have is a bunch of barren sticks. This is what that scene REALLY looked like:

But you know, despite all odds, we still had a good time. Some background: In years before the democratization of Japan, a new capitol was established every time there was a new emperor. In the course of history, all of those cities have been destroyed by bombs or fire. All, except one.
Kyoto is the longest standing original capitol in the country. (Most others, like Tokyo for instance, had been rebuilt at some point in time.) The city is rich with temples, shrines, and even a castle. The juxtaposition of old and new was even more jarring than usual. But enough talking. Let’s get to the photos!
No trip in japan is complete without a “jon is too tall for this country” photo. By this point in the morning (it was like, 8:30am) he had hit his head about three times. I will now refer to him as “lumpy”.

Our first stop of the day was… under construction. What the hell, you know? For the record, they still charged full price to get in. This was the “silver temple”, though it was actually made entirely of wood. (There were unfulfilled plans for it to be covered in silver, to rival the “gold temple” which we’ll see tomorrow.) There’s also a sand sculpture to represent Mt. Fuji. There’s a lot of fuji-love. (for those of you in west allis, your sushi house called “fujiyama” is really named after “Mt. Fuji”! (yama = mountain))

As an architectural feature, there were circles everywhere in the city.
Near the gift shop of the silver temple, we found (what I think to be) one of the highlights of the trip. At first we thought what we found was a journal. After the woman behind the counter asked us if we wanted it signed for $3 more (Again, with the language barrier, we had no idea what we were getting. We generally say “yes” and hand over our money when something like this happens.) We realized that at every temple, there are little old men hired to record your travel in calligraphy. Each temple has a unique signature and set of stamps, and your page is recorded with the date. I thought it was great because it added another dimension to visiting temples. Now it’s temples… crazy-japanese-adventure-style.

Lumpy-Jon spent a lot of the day with his nose in a book, walking down pathways. He’s a great impromptu tour guide:

So we’re walking along this path called the “philosopher’s stroll” (named because it’s supposed to be so beautiful during cherry blossom season that it’s been said to have inspired some of the great philosophers of the time.) and we’re admiring the day and standing in line to pose for pictures in front of the few blossoming trees…

…and then tragedy struck. This was the last photo ever taken with our beautiful new camera, the cannon g9. That camera, just under 1 year old, has served us well. It’s taken many great photos, it’s sturdy, it’s portable. it’s a great camera. It wasn’t cheap.
And now its a paperweight. I know what you’re thinking. And you’re wrong. I did not drop the camera. This whole situation would be a lot easier to cope with had I taken some part in the malfunction of the camera.
So that’s a good spot to end part 1. Continue on for a visually barren look at part 2.